Coco Chanel (1883-1971) was a revolutionary force in 20th century fashion and creator of the little black dress.
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Hello, from Wonder Media Network I’m Jenny Kaplan and this is Encyclopedia Womannica.
Our story today begins in a French orphanage and ends with one of the most iconic fashion brands in the world. The creator of the little black dress and a revolutionary force in 20th century fashion, we’re talking about the one and only, Coco Chanel.
Gabrielle Chanel was born on August 19, 1883. She was the second of five children born to Albert Chanel and Jeanne Devolle. Her parents were not married. In 1895, when Gabrielle was 11 years old, her mother died. Her father, a traveling merchant who had never been a reliable presence in the family, abandoned the five children. Gabrielle and her two sisters were placed in a boarding school run by nuns. Her brothers were sent to a local farm as child laborers.
Despite her humble beginnings, Gabrielle’s lot in life quickly took a turn.
When she was old enough to leave the orphanage, the nuns helped Gabrielle get a job as a seamstress at a local boutique. It was during this time that Gabrielle began frequenting a local cafe, La Rotonde. The cafe frequently hosted cabarets where amateurs were welcomed on stage to sing between acts. Gabrielle, known for her boldness, frequently stepped up to the mic. It’s rumored that her iconic nickname, Coco, came from her frequently singing the song, “Who Has Seen Coco?”. The audience, largely filled with rambunctious cavalrymen, would shout Coco! Coco! Back at her while she sang.
During Coco’s reign at La Rotonde, she met Etienne Balsan], a cavalryman from a wealthy French family. Balsan, enchanted with Coco, invited her to stay at his estate. The two became quick companions but the relationship was not without turmoil. Balsan was a modern day playboy who spent his time indulging in expensive race horses, parties and women. In the early 1900s, a wealthy Frenchman was not going to risk his status and reputation by marrying an orphaned seamstress. Nevertheless, Coco made the best of the situation.
During her time with Balsan, Coco was introduced to French high society and drew attention as a burgeoning fashion designer. The French tabloids took note when hats of her design were worn by Balsan’s elite social circle to the horse track. Coco aspired to open her own boutique in Paris, but lacked the funds to do so.
In 1914, she met a man who would help make her dream a reality. Arthur Chapel was an Englishman who met Coco during a week-long fox hunt. Chapel was also a bit of a playboy and the two entered into a complex romantic relationship. Five years later, Chapel tragically died. But before he passed, Chapel offered Coco the financial support she needed to open her first shop at 21 Rue Cambon.
At first the shop exclusively featured hats, but it quickly grew to include a few clothing items. Coco’s designs were a shock to the industry. Women’s fashion at the time was restrictive: corset bodices, full skirts and ruffles were in vogue. But Coco’s designs emphasized straight lines, muted colors and comfort. Her clothes exuded a simple elegance previously reserved for menswear. She used jersey, a fabric typically reserved for men’s underwear at the time, to make simple dresses. Her aesthetic drew inspiration from her working class beginnings, highlighting function and practicality through accessible fabrics.
The Chanel style was a huge success. By 1919, Coco had a staff of 300 and she was selling her dresses for what today is worth 2,000 dollars a piece. In 1923 she introduced her signature perfume, Chanel No. 5. In developing No. 5, Coco partnered with a parfumerie to create what she referred to as ‘a woman’s scent’. Much like her clothes, Chanel No. 5 rebuked traditionally feminine perfumes that were filled with rose-water and flowery scents. Even the bottle design was consistent with the Chanel brand. It came in a sleek, square bottle -- a departure from the opulent perfume bottles more commonly seen at the time.
Coco’s success reached new heights when in 1925 she introduced the classic Chanel suit. To this day, the classic look features a collarless cardigan jacket, with fitted sleeves and braid trim. The matching skirt falls just below the knee. The success and ubiquity of the Chanel suit was only eclipsed by the introduction of the perennial, Little Black Dress.
Coco created The Little Black Dress in 1926. It was praised for its day-to-night flexibility. Vogue called it the ‘Ford’ of dresses -- eluding to its near universal popularity. It’s not hyperbole to say that the introduction of the Little Black Dress permanently transformed the fashion industry.
The Chanel brand expanded to include cocktail dresses and evening wear. Coco herself made headlines when she started a new trend -- wearing trousers. While it might seem silly now, it was quite unheard of at the time for a woman of high society to wear pants in any upscale setting.
Coco’s soaring popularity took a huge hit with the onset of World War II. When Nazis invaded Paris, Coco closed up shop and dismissed her staff. But that wasn’t so much the issue. The controversy that surrounded Coco arose from her affair with a young Nazi officer. The full extent of Coco’s involvement with the Nazi Party remains unclear. But in 2011, an investigative journalist named Hal Vaughn unearthed documentation that named her as a German agent. Vaughn alleges that Coco traveled around Europe using her influence to recruit people for the Third Reich. When France was liberated in 1944, Coco was interrogated by French authorities for hours over the relationship. The result was a deeply tarnished public image and a self-imposed social exile.
Ten years later, at the age of seventy, Coco staged a comeback.
Following the end of WWII, 1950s fashion saw a return to tighter bodices and fuller skirts. Coco felt the latest trends did not represent the resourceful, capable women who had greatly contributed to the war effort. So in 1954, she reopened the House of Chanel.
Her new line initially received mixed reviews in Europe but was a hit in America. The following year, her sleek designs were back in good graces with the European fashion elite and her legendary status was restored. The Chanel Suit, with updates to its iconic tweed and braided trim, once again became a status symbol for a new generation.
On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel passed away at the Ritz Hotel in Paris. She was 87 years old.
She left behind an estate worth over $90 million.
Despite being born into abject poverty, Coco rose through the ranks of Parisian high society and created one of the most enduring names in fashion and perfume.
Her emphasis on simplicity, elegance and sensible style, permanently transformed women’s fashion.
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