Womanica

Muses: Emilie Louise Flöge

Episode Summary

Emilie Louise Flöge (1874-1952) was an avant-garde fashion designer, often seen as the progenitor to Coco Chanel. She caught the attention of artist Gustav Klimt and was the subject of one of his most famous paintings, “The Kiss.” However, she wasn’t just Klimt’s muse–she was also a creative collaborator.

Episode Notes

Emilie Louise Flöge (1874-1952) was an avant-garde fashion designer, often seen as the progenitor to Coco Chanel. She caught the attention of artist Gustav Klimt and was the subject of one of his most famous paintings, “The Kiss.” However, she wasn’t just Klimt’s muse–she was also  a creative collaborator.

This month, we’re talking about muses–women who were drivers of creativity and inspiration. Once again, we’re proud to partner with Mercedes-Benz (whose famous namesake was inspired by a young muse named Mercedes). Tune in daily for stories of women whose lives inspired work that has shaped our culture.

History classes can get a bad rap, and sometimes for good reason. When we were students, we couldn’t help wondering... where were all the ladies at? Why were so many incredible stories missing from the typical curriculum? Enter, Womanica. On this Wonder Media Network podcast we explore the lives of inspiring women in history you may not know about, but definitely should.

Every weekday, listeners explore the trials, tragedies, and triumphs of groundbreaking women throughout history who have dramatically shaped the world around us. In each 5 minute episode, we’ll dive into the story behind one woman listeners may or may not know–but definitely should. These diverse women from across space and time are grouped into easily accessible and engaging monthly themes like Educators, Villains, Indigenous Storytellers, Activists, and many more.  Womanica is hosted by WMN co-founder and award-winning journalist Jenny Kaplan. The bite-sized episodes pack painstakingly researched content into fun, entertaining, and addictive daily adventures. 

Womanica was created by Liz Kaplan and Jenny Kaplan, executive produced by Jenny Kaplan, and produced by Liz Smith, Grace Lynch, Maddy Foley, Brittany Martinez, Edie Allard, Lindsey Kratochwill, Adesuwa Agbonile, Carmen Borca-Carrillo, Taylor Williamson, Ale Tejeda, Sara Schleede, and Alex Jhamb Burns. Special thanks to Shira Atkins. 

Original theme music composed by Miles Moran.

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Episode Transcription

Hello! From Wonder Media Network, I’m Jenny Kaplan. This is Womanica. 

This month, we're talking about muses -- women who were drivers of creativity and inspiration

Today, we’re talking about a woman who was an avant-garde fashion designer, often seen as the progenitor to Coco Chanel. She caught the attention of artist Gustav Klimt and was the subject of one of his most famous paintings, “The Kiss.” And she wasn’t just Klimt’s muse. She was also  a creative collaborator.   

Please welcome Emilie Louise Flöge. 

Emilie Flöge was born on August 30, 1874 in Vienna, Austria. Emilie was one of four children born in a family that belonged to the wealthiest class of Viennese society. Emilie’s father, Hermann, was a successful entrepreneur. 

As a young girl, Emilie first worked as a seamstress. Eventually, she worked her way up to design fashions as well.  When Emilie started working in the industry, the trends for women were quite limited. Most designs were tight, figure hugging, and featured a corset. That was not the style Emilie was interested in designing. 

In 1904, Emilie, and her sisters Pauline and Helene opened a fashion salon called Schwestern Flöge which translates to Flöge sisters. It was very unusual for three unmarried women to run a business at the time, but their work successfully catered to the upper class women of Vienna. 

Emilie designed dresses that abandoned the corseted styles many women were wearing. She embraced the empire-waist and billowing sleeves. Her dresses were revolutionary in their flowing style and intricate patterns. The sisters showcased their pieces in the salon, which was designed by architect Josef Hoffmann. The salon’s logo was made by artist Gustav Klimt. 

Emilie first met Klimt in 1891. He was twelve years her senior, and they had just become in-laws. Emilie’s sister Helene was marrying Klimt’s brother. Tragically, this brother passed away unexpectedly the following year. In this time of grief, the two families grew closer. And Emilie and Klimt formed what would become a lifelong companionship.

Over the course of their relationship, they exchanged more than 400 letters. 

In different accounts Emilie is Klimt’s muse, partner, companion, and even lover. There’s much speculation about the nature of their relationship. And while it was certainly a loving one, scholars believe it was platonic. 

During summer trips to Lake Attersee, Klimt began painting Emilie. In 1902, he painted the “Portrait of Emilie Flöge,” in which she is elegantly posed in an ornate dress of her own design. 

Several years later, Klimt painted one of his most famous works, “The Kiss.” The painting depicts a man and a woman, passionately embracing in a field of flowers. Gold hues dominate the palate and both of them are dressed in uniquely patterned clothing that recalls Emilie’s fashion design. Many think that the pair depicted in “The Kiss” are Emilie and Klimt. 

All the while, Emilie was still running her boutique business. The salon weathered the Great Depression, and continued catering to loyal, progressive customers. In 1938, as the Nazis gained power in Austria, the Schwestern Flöge salon finally closed its doors. 

On May 26th 1952, Emilie died of kidney failure.

Because Emilie was known as Klimt’s proclaimed muse, her own achievements in the fashion industry have been overlooked. Emilie’s avant-garde style and the rebellion in her designs were incredibly influential. Her work was a part of a larger movement of new styles of dress, which were truly radical.

All month, we’re highlighting muses. For more information, find us on Facebook and Instagram @womanicapodcast. 

Special thanks to Liz Kaplan, my favorite sister and co-creator. 

Talk to you tomorrow!