Irene Sharaff (1910-1993) was one of the most celebrated costume designers for both Broadway and Hollywood. Her work was known for its color, and for its ability to capture character. She could deftly design anything from a royal gown to drab suburban attire.
Irene Sharaff (1910-1993) was one of the most celebrated costume designers for both Broadway and Hollywood. Her work was known for its color, and for its ability to capture character. She could deftly design anything from a royal gown to drab suburban attire.
Special thanks to our exclusive Pride Month sponsor, Mercedes-Benz! Mercedes-Benz continues to support and stand with the LGBTQIA+ community. Listen all month long as we celebrate women whose authentic expression in their lives and bodies of work have expanded the norms of gender and sexuality in the performing arts.
History classes can get a bad rap, and sometimes for good reason. When we were students, we couldn’t help wondering... where were all the ladies at? Why were so many incredible stories missing from the typical curriculum? Enter, Womanica. On this Wonder Media Network podcast we explore the lives of inspiring women in history you may not know about, but definitely should.
Every weekday, listeners explore the trials, tragedies, and triumphs of groundbreaking women throughout history who have dramatically shaped the world around us. In each 5 minute episode, we’ll dive into the story behind one woman listeners may or may not know–but definitely should. These diverse women from across space and time are grouped into easily accessible and engaging monthly themes like Educators, Villains, Indigenous Storytellers, Activists, and many more. Womanica is hosted by WMN co-founder and award-winning journalist Jenny Kaplan. The bite-sized episodes pack painstakingly researched content into fun, entertaining, and addictive daily adventures.
Womanica was created by Liz Kaplan and Jenny Kaplan, executive produced by Jenny Kaplan, and produced by Liz Smith, Grace Lynch, Maddy Foley, Brittany Martinez, Edie Allard, Lindsey Kratochwill, Adesuwa Agbonile, Carmen Borca-Carrillo, Taylor Williamson, Ale Tejeda, Sara Schleede, and Alex Jhamb Burns. Special thanks to Shira Atkins.
Original theme music composed by Miles Moran.
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Hello! From Wonder Media Network, I’m Carmen Borca-Carrillo, and this is Womanica.
June is Pride Month, and to celebrate, we’re highlighting queer stars of the stage and screen. They’re women who expanded the norms of gender and sexuality in the limelight, and behind the scenes. I helped curate the month, and I’m so excited to guest host this episode.
Today, we’re talking about one of the most celebrated costume designers for both Broadway and Hollywood. Her work was known for its color, and for its ability to capture character. She could deftly design anything from a royal gown to drab suburban attire.
Let’s meet Irene Sharaff.
Irene was born in Boston in 1910. She started her design career studying art – first at the New York School of Fine and Applied Arts, then the Art Students League in New York City. She also studied in Paris, at the Grande Chaumière art school.
Irene once said, “Color has always been important to me. I dream in color more often than in black and white; people and situations are symbolized for me by colors; numerals and words have color.”
And indeed, color would become a huge part of her work, and her life. Irene worked as a fashion illustrator for magazines, like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Then, in 1928, her art got more tangible. She became an apprentice under designer Aline Bernstein at the Civic Repertory Theater Company in New York.
Irene worked with Aline for years, designing sets and costumes for more than a dozen plays, until the stock market crashed. The 1930s brought tough times to Broadway. So Irene went to France, where she studied haute couture.
Eventually, the theater brought her back to New York. She made a big splash with her scenic and costume design for a production of Alice in Wonderland in 1932.
This success led to designing costumes for Broadway throughout the 1930s and 40s.
Irene was not content with just one mode of performance. She designed for ballets, and worked seamlessly between Broadway and Hollywood productions. For The King and I and West Side Story, Irene designed the costumes for both the film and theatrical productions.
On set and in studios, Irene was a presence. She dressed glamorously, wearing a grand hat, and a perfect bun. On sets, she won the respect of actors like Elizabeth Taylor. In a 2011 Interview with Interview Magazine, Elizabeth described Irene’s methods as an artist:
“She studies the character, she studies the dialogue, she knows what scene precedes and what follows. She gets into the mood of each character, not just the one she’s mainly doing. She’s a genius. I’m so sorry she’s not here anymore.”
Irene could also be sharp and witty on set. In one retelling, she was asked about Faye Dunaway while filming Mommie Dearest. Irene said: “Yes, you may enter Miss Dunaway’s dressing room, but first you must throw a raw steak in — to divert her attention.”
Irene’s career spanned about fifty years. She designed for more than 60 stage productions and 40 films. In that time, she won five Academy Awards and one Tony Award.
Her designs turned into icons themselves – like Barbra Streisand’s turn of the century gown in Hello Dolly!. It needed to be functional, so Barbra could dance. But it was also incredibly intricate – golden and covered in more than half a pound of jewels. Even the thread was made of pure gold.
Irene kept her personal life private. But she did have a close relationship with another woman, Mai-Mai Sze, who was an artist and advocate. Folks who knew them described the couple as inseparable. They lived together, and privately, seemed to have a great love for one another. Mai-Mai Sze died in 1992. Irene lived for just 11 months longer.
Irene died in 1993, in New York. She was 83 years old.
Following Irene’s death, the Theatre Development Fund created the Irene Sharaff Awards to honor her contributions to the art of costume design. Each year, the award brings the community together and honors designers and artists. In those artists today, we can still see Irene’s influences on stage and screen.
For more information, find us on Facebook and Instagram @womanicapodcast.
Special thanks to creators Jenny and Liz Kaplan for inviting me to guest host.
As always, we’ll be taking a break for the weekend. Talk to you Monday!